Carpenter Tools

Quality Carpenter Tools Will Help You Create Masterpieces

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When applying wax to wood to give it a nice shine, make sure the surface is clean, dip a rag in wax and apply it in a circular motion. Go with the grain when applying wax to wood with help from an independent contractor and carpenter in this free video on applying wax to wood. Expert: Jeremiah Fox Bio: Jeremiah Fox is an independent contractor, carpenter and handyman with over 20 years of experience in home repair and remodeling. Filmmaker: Steve Anthony

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Your Questions About Woodworking Tools

Betty asks…

Where can I find a woodworking shop near Alexandria, VA?

I want to build some furniture, but my townhouse doesn’t have a garage and I don’t have some of the more advanced tools like bench- or miter- saws. Is there somewhere in the Alexandria, VA, area I can rent a “bay” to complete some furniture projects?

Dusty answers:

Send me a message. I have a buddy down that way who does that. I’ll email him and ask where he works out of.


Richard asks…

What’s a good beginner drill? Woodworking book?

I’m getting my husband all of the tools he will need to begin woodworking and a book about it for Christmas. He’s a handy guy and he’s wanted start woodworking for a while and we finally moved into a home with ample room for it. I was wondering, what’s a good drill set under $100 that I can get him to kick start a hobby in woodworking? Also, can anyone recommend a good book that will help him get started?

Dusty answers:

== please visit the Sears Store tool department for your drill and a set of bits ….. I have been using Sears brand tools for years and most of them are still good … B-Noble is good for books … AND when you purchase the bits .. Buy the metal drilling bits — they stay sharper and last longer than the normal wood bits [[ makes them cost less ]] ===== Basic Woodworking for a book and many plans for home projects are found using the search boxes/online … Like “”" free plans to build a workbench”"” —- a good garage size wooden woekbench can be built for about $50.00 — suggest that your hubby research workbench plans and make a bench that will fit well in the garage ,,,,,,,,,,

David asks…

What’s the best method to replace dry rot wood?

The front fascia board on my home, where the rain gutters attach, has some soft, dry rot areas that I need to replace prior to installing new gutters. Can I just cut out the bad areas and splice in some new lengths of wood or is there a better method?

I have construction and woodworking skills/tools, so ability isn’t an issue. I just want to make sure I do it properly.

Dusty answers:

First, you must understand that there is no such thing as dry rot. Wood does not rot if it is dry – not no way, not no how, not ever. It rotted because it got wet, somehow, sometime.

Repairing the damage is pretty easy, I do a lot of that particular repair and I’ll offer a couple of things that might make your repair last longer.
1) I would recommend replacing the full length of any boards
2) Do not use finger jointed boards for the repair. I have replaced hundreds of those boards that were just a few years old. Buy solid wood boards – Select grade is best if you plan to paint, but you can get away with a lower grade if you seal the knots.
3) Sand the boards lightly just to roughen the surface a bit – get rid of the “mill gloss”. Prime ALL surfaces with a high quality, oil primer. My own preference is Fresh Start by Benjamin Moore. I do mean all surfaces – front, back, edges and ends.
4) Apply two coats of high quality paint – avoid paints from big box stores, especially Behr. I don’t care what their advertising says, Behr paint is one of the worst I have ever come across. Go to a locally owned paint store and ask some questions about what makes a quality paint.

While you’re up there, take a look at the drip edge on the roof. Does the bottom side of it slope downward – that is below a level line? If so, that’s probably the source of the water that caused the rot. Use pliers or a seaming tool to squeeze the drip edge so the lower surface slopes upward from the edge toward the ridgepole of the building.

Ruth asks…

I like woodworking but have no money?

So I can’t buy all the fancy tools, or even the wood that I want. Just thought I’d vent my frustrations. If you have any ideas on the subject let me know.

Dusty answers:

I will not tell that it does not cost money to do woodworking, but I can maybe tell you some guidelines to help get you started. I get a lot of my wood FREE: as I go looking for wood from places like Dumpsters in back of Lowe’s, Home Depot, remodeling work sites.(now I do not always get real good wood, but enough to make projects out of it.) As I made small projects, I sold a few (friends,neighbors) the money went to buy a cheap tool (from Flea Markets) and went from there. There are tons of free patterns on the net and I look at junk mail books and get ideas from them. It has been most enjoyable seeing that others like what I have made.

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Chris asks…

Psychology Question :) ?

You’re out hiking in a remote area when you are soaked by a sudden storm. You find shelter in an abandoned cabin in which you find a pile of 2X4 lumber (each board is 8 feet long), some very rusty carpenter’s tools, and some woodworking clamps. You decide to dry out your clothing, gear, and yourself by building a fire in the fireplace (your matches are dry).
It would be good if you could hang up your heavy, soaked coat so you decide to build a clothes rack to place near the fire. But you can’t find any nails, rope, or wire which you might use to build a sturdy enough structure to hold your wet coat, which must weigh a ton! As a responsible person, you don’t want to damage the cabin or its contents. Is there a solution to your dilemma?
Good answer :)

Dusty answers:

Yea hang the coat on one of the boards then lean the end of the board with the coat against the wall so it pins it on the board.

Most likely you would lay the coat by the fire on the ground though.

And if you really wanna get handy you can build a structure with boards and the clamps so that your coat hangs above the fire. I would not waste my time and energy doing this though depending on the situation I was in, how remote, and how many days hike out it was.

John asks…

USN Camillus Mark 2 Knife WWII… ?

I love this knife and it is one of the best tools I have for woodworking and camping. Unfortunately, the pommel has loosened over time and with use, and I do not know how to tighten it. What do I do???
If you have experience with knives of this kind, I can send pictures of the pommel attachment, etc. I cannot find any of this particular fashion…
Camillus Cutlery is no longer in operation.
It is my grandfathers from the Korean War, and as far as I can tell from research, it is a WWII USN Mark II.
Thanks for your input, I figured out the mechanism and resolved it for myself!

Again, thanks for your suggestions

Dusty answers:

You are probably talking about a Kabar Knive that was made for the Marine Corps and the Navy. If you can’t find someone who specializes in Camillus, look for the name ONTARIO KNIFE on the internet, both companies made them, if (indeed) they are not the same company.

If you can’t get it fixed, get a new Ontario knife. I don’t know what they did with their steel, but it is the easiest to sharpen and the strongest knife blade that I have ever used, I have had a few of them, but most of the time people want to buy them from me for more than I paid for them. Don’t get a Japanese look alike, they are junk.

Steven asks…

what should i make?

i have 3 large sheet of plywood my neighbor gave me and have no idea what to make

im 15 years old and woodworking inclined because my dad is a carpenter. he has alot of tools and im allowed to use them all so tell me something to make to waste some time with my friends large or small it doesnt matter as long as i can use it and have fun
i have already make a couple tree houses and many other things you would think a boy my age would have already made so give me something hard

Dusty answers:

Hope these give you some ideas.


How to make corn hole game boards

Rules of the game.


Laura asks…

KITCHEN CABINET REFACING:How to updated Kitchen Cabinets Refacing?

My next project is to update the kitchen cabinets. I plan to remove the trim strips, strip the carcases and restain and varnish the face frames. I will construct my own new doors and drawer fronts (perhaps the whole drawer). New hardware, different style doors (more of a craftsman style) and new color should look pretty good.

It is the sides of the cabinets that concern me. I don’t think they are even oak. I think the cabinet maker used fir plywood and an oak stain. In any case, they are pretty scroungy looking. They are also not perfectly flat. I am somewhat distrustful of the thin veneers on the market. I can resaw my own veneer and have an 18″ Rikon bandsaw for just that purpose. If I were to resaw a bunch of quartersawn oak into 8″ wide and 3/32″ thick strips, how would I stick them to the sides of the cabinets with any expectation of them staying put. Also, with wide strips of wood over plywood, what do I do about wood movement. Will my thick veneer buckle?

Finally, how do I smooth out the surface of the cabinet to create a flat gluing surface?

So, 4 questions:

1. Should I be so intimidated by the stick on veneers on the market?
2. How would I attach 3/32″ veneer to the sides of cabinets without uninstalling them.
3. What about wood movement in thick veneer?
4. How do I create a flat gluing surface.

many thanks,
P.S. I taught Industrial Arts for 8 years but never certified in woodworking. I was a plastics and metals kind of guy. I did get used to having those wonderful shops around for my own projects and have acquired some tools over the years.

Dusty answers:

Hi there nice to meet you again!!
You obviously know a good deal about woodworking, because you asked a lot of important questions that a beginner wouldn’t even begin to ponder. And it’s wise to consider all that you are thinking about, as all of this could prove problematic down the line. I’ll try to help with each questions you asked, so this may turn into a long answer.

1. Should I be so intimidated by the stick on veneers on the market? Yes, you should be a little intimidated by those veneers, but maybe not for the reasons you think. I have a fair amount of experience with these, and I have a couple of opinions. First, they’re pricey. Next, they stick like crazy, but CAN fail, meaning that they can bubble when you least expect it. It’s just my opinion, but they’re overpriced, and tricky to work with, so they wouldn’t be my first choice.

2. How would I attach 3/32″ veneer to the sides of cabinets without uninstalling them. Good question. I would guess that contact cement would just about be the only option you have, but once again, you’re going to have to be really careful to get it positioned right the first time. And this thickness of veneer can create movement problems, read below.

3. What about wood movement in thick veneer? I think this might not be as big a deal as one would first consider. Your plywood sides are pretty much stable, meaning they’ve acclimated to your kitchen environment. They probably don’t move much. It might be wise to bring the 3/32″ veneer inside for a while, and let it acclimate in the room, too, so that when you join the two materials, they’re both going to be a similar moisture contents, and movement will be reduced. Still- movement can happen. Using this veneer creates just as many problems as it solves. Keep reading…

4. How do I create a flat gluing surface. The veneer is going to be somewhat flexible, so the surface doesn’t have to be dead-on flat. And the contact cement will grab instantly, so it will compensate for any imperfections in the surfaces.

Roger, let’s talk about this project you’re going to undertake just a little bit. Taking off the doors and frames are going to leave you with just plain boxes that you want to get back into shape, right? You’re going to reapply a new face frame, too, right? And even perhaps rebuild all the drawers. This is a fairly large undertaking, and right off the top of my head, I can think of a few solutions to some of the problems that you are going to encounter. I’m going to throw a few things out there, and you can write back if you want to discuss them further.

Since you’re remaking new drawer boxes, it really doesn’t matter what you do to the inside of the cabinets. If I were taking on this project, I would buy some 1/4″ or 1/8″ white melamine sheets, and some 1/4″ oak plywood. Then- I would resurface the bottoms of all your cabinets with the while melamine. It will make it look clean and will be easy to clean in the future. You only need to reface the bottoms of the cabinets that don’t have drawers in their bottom area. In the cabinets have lower drawers, you don’t see the bottom interior anyway. Next, reface the sides using the 1/4″ oak plywood. Once again- you only need to face the interiors where you see them. If the cabinets have drawers in them, you’re not going to see the interior, so you can leave those alone.

So- you’ve refaced all the surfaces that are visible, and they’re clean looking and stable. And since you’re going to reinstall the face frame, it’s going to hide the fact that you’ve added a layer to the mix. Remember that you can’t just put the existing face frame back in place, you may have to cut the pieces smaller to hide the new layers you’ve added.

When you stop and think about all your time and the wood involved, I think it’s overkill to cut your own veneer to resurface the interiors. You can glue the plywood and melamine stuff in place using something like a thin coat of liquid nails, and maybe shoot a few brads into place to hold it while the glues sets up. A those sheets of plywood (or even MDF) are pretty cheap, and will be easier to work with than your home made veneer.

Last thing- you might want to consider using European hardware like the cup hinges that most cabinet companies are using these days. They make mounting plates designed to go with face frame construction, and it makes installing new doors a breeze. I like Grass or Blum hinges, and both have face frame mounting plates readily available. I can give you specific part numbers if you’re interested.

Good luck, I hope this helps. Feel free to write back with any other questions you might have after reading this. I’m sure you’ll have a few!
Maybe if you want more information,You can refer to this blog which show you an article about Kitchen Cabinets Refacing and Kitchen backsplash Ideas:
(if those website not change)

Kitchen Cabinets Refacing VIDEOS:

Kitchen Cabin

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Your Questions About Carpentry Tools

Sandra asks…

Am I charging too little for handyman and rehab work?

A local entrepreneur says he has 80 + hours of work for me doing handyman work, property maintenance, repairs, labor, moving furniture, etc around some of his properties. He wants to pay me $15 an hour. Due to a fluke in a conversation we had before we started, he thinks I have agreed to $15 an hour. When I freelance, I usually charge minimum $85 to show up which covers about 3 hours, and $25 an hour for every hour after that. He wants to hold me to $15 because I didn’t speak up before the work started. I feel like I shot myself in the foot here. But if I press the point, I am worried I am going to lose 80 hours of guaranteed work this month. I think $15 is too cheap, and I am devaluing my work and the work of other contractors.

Issues to consider in pricing myself.

15 years experience
knowledgeable in multiple trades, incl drywall, carpentry, cabinetry, mechanical repairs, light electrical, light plumbing, etc, etc.
Own all my own tools
I rent space in a workshop so I have a place to do complicated repairs, and build furniture & cabinets
use my own vehicle to get to jobs
I have to pay my own health insurance and use my cell phone for work
I live in Chicago, one of the most expensive cities in the country.

I know I’m lucky to even get work these days, but that doesn’t mean I have to work at slave wages, does it? Walmart employees don’t even need a GED and they make $10 to start. I think $15 is too little. Even my illegal buddies demand $200 a day. For an 8 hour day that’s $25 an hour.

Thoughts guys?

Dusty answers:

If you have more work than you can handle up your price ,if you don’t have enough drop it.

Thomas asks…

Small marketable concrete or woodwork projects?

I’m a 2nd year Carpentry apprentice and I just underwent surgery and am unable to work for the next couple months. I’m going stir crazy sitting at home recovering, and money is getting a little tighter than I’d like. I have basic portable power tools and hand tools and access to most any materials to work with. I have experience in framing, renos, roofing etc, so skills aren’t a problem. I also have done structural, decorative and architectural concrete projects. I would like some ideas for some small scale projects that are marketable and could sell for a little extra cash here and there. My ideas would be a concrete bird bath or small wood shelving units, but any ideas are welcome please and thank you!

Dusty answers:

Birdhouses are fairly simple and the materials are cheap. I’ve sold some that I’ve made for anywhere between $10-$50 depending on the size and complexity. Also I’ve heard of people making doll houses and selling them for a really good profit because they don’t take much money for the materials. Doll houses are also more engaging as you have to draw up the floor plans and measure more.

Lizzie asks…

Besides using a chisel and a hammer, what other method could I use to carve out a word on a wooden surface?

The whole aim of the above task is to do it myself, and not to use any third party companies.

I have to make a wooden plaque, with the companies name carved into it. I just wanted to know whether there was a quicker method of doing it YOURSELF using any hand & / or power tools, if so:

What tools would you use ?
How would you go about it ?.

I would like to hear from any DIY / Trade’s people, into wood working or carpentry, all suggestions are appreciated, Thank you for your time.

Dusty answers:

It really depends on how you want it to look. I’ve carved with knives, chisels and xacto knives, but if you want to do the job quickly and neatly, Dremel sells this attachment for their dremel tool that turns it into a mini-router. Decide on what size you want your letters, type it in and print it out using whatever word processor you want (Microsoft word, wordperfect, etc) and in whatever font you wish in the size you wish. Use spray on stencil glue (craft store) and paint the back. This will allow you to stick the paper onto the surface where you want the letters carved. Then use the dremel tool mini router to cut out the letters. Go slowly and let the dremel tool mini router cut right through the paper into the wood, lifting the bit out where necessary. If the bit you use is the same size as the line size on the font you use it’s a lot easier. Then peel off the paper and ‘voila, you have your sign, letters all even and neat, carved in the shape you want to an even depth..

I’ve done this many times for little special signs for people at work, for little signs for our guest rooms to keep the doors closed ‘keep door closed, cat free room’, etc, etc. The little dremel mini-router setup also has bits you can use to finish off the edges of the sign for a more finished effect.

Use a little minwax sealer stain and you’re done.

Good luck

Robert asks…

What is the best skill to travel and get work abroad with?

I’m looking to get a skill that I can use to work abroad with. I don’t want to do the TEFL course or teach English, as I don’t want to be stuck in a classroom. I also don’t want to be stuck in front of a computer. I had thought of carpentry, however it occurred to me that I would need to carry around my own tools which would be a bit of a problem.

Ideally I would like to have a practical/physical skill which can be used in most countries, and one that would ideally see me working outdoors too?

Any suggestions from people with experience would be grately appreciated.

Many thanks,

Dusty answers:

Construction is identified as high-demand occupation in foreign countrys,
Carpenters and crane operators are construction related professions listed

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Your Questions About Carpenter Tools

Thomas asks…

I am a carpenter working for a contractor. I transport my own tools to work. Can I write off my mileage?

I work for a contractor, having taxes taken out of my pay. I transport my own tools to and from job sites everyday. Can I write off the mileage on my vehicle going to and from work?

Dusty answers:

If you itemize your deductions then most likely yes. It’s always best to consult with a CPA to make sure though.

Charles asks…

What is the carpenter tool in the art kit that I have?

There are like rectagle bar things that say ‘CARPENTER 6B’ and ‘CARPENTER HB’
what are those and what do you use them for?

Dusty answers:

They are pencils used for rough sketching. They are flat sided because the carpenters who use them don’t always have a perfectly horizontal space to work in. The flat sides prevent the pencil from rolling off a work surface. Many sketch artists work on a slanted drawing surface, so these carpenter pencils can be very handy.

Daniel asks…

where can i find free plans to build a nice coffee table i have tools and am a experienced carpenter?

Dusty answers:

Go to They have lot’s of free plans and wood working tips and good stories about wood workers.

William asks…

Carpenter & Joiners Tools?

I have broken my Draper Saw Setting Pliers. Does anyone know where I can buy a similar tool (Draper stopped selling them in 1996) in England.
I am seeking a positive answer, please, from someone who definitely knows.

Dusty answers:

Check out for hard to find woodworking tools

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How To Select Painting Tools – The Home Depot

Learn the best methods for applying your paints. Find out which tools to use on a particular surface along with the type of brush, roller or power sprayer that best fits your paint job. For more DIY information, visit
Video Rating: 4 / 5

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