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Making A Woodworking Vise, Part 7 Of 11




www.ibuildit.ca Part 7 of my homemade quick release woodworking vise build.
Video Rating: 5 / 5

 

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26 Responses to “Making A Woodworking Vise, Part 7 Of 11”

  1. jpheisz says:

    I’m a carpenter. Thanks and thanks for watching my videos! Appreciated.

  2. John Davidson says:

    What do you do for a living? I have only watched a few of your videos so far, but you are definitly (did I spell that right?) a thinking man’s thinking man. Cool designs, sir. I salute you.

  3. jpheisz says:

    In fact, the wear is really insignificant, since the contact area is very small and this is steel, not play-dough.
    In the plans, I added a yoke to the ends of the guide bars and lead screw to minimize this, mainly to make it less noisy.

  4. Digger725 says:

    i don’t mean to pick holes in your design because it is actually a very nice one, but when that threaded rod slides in and out over the threads on the nut, surely that must damage the threads on either the rod or the nut? and it makes allot of noise, is there no way you could support the rod from underneath with a bearing or something to stop this from happening?

  5. jpheisz says:

    Thanks. Sorry, I don’t have those measurements on hand at this time.
    I will be producing a plan for this vise in the near future, and that will be available on my website.
    Thanks for watching.

  6. mpadierna says:

    Would you please put the lever measures? I mean: Piece dimensions, distance from each bolt to the edge and from each other? Thanks. The mechanism is great.

  7. deezynar says:

    I look forward to seeing your next design.

  8. jpheisz says:

    There is a good deal of force needed to hold them closed, and as you pointed out, my current lever can easily do it. What I’d be looking for is a similar way to hold the nuts closed from the bottom – the more I think about this arrangement, the more I like it.

  9. deezynar says:

    Have you experimented w/ just a split nut on a screw to see how much force is actually needed to keep the halves together? Your current mechanism has a lot of friction built in & it has about a 1 1/2:1 mechanical advantage. Try slipping a screwdriver between the arms where the nut is & twist it. I’m sure you won’t be able to budge the arms apart. The resistance your current mechanism has to splitting apart may be far more than is needed tho.

  10. jpheisz says:

    CONT…that this is not as big of an issue as I thought and it takes very little force to hold them together around the rod. So, while reversing the pivot on my current setup is sound reasoning, there is little to be gained from it with the current open / close lever.
    If I were to redesign for the under the lead screw quick release, I’d concentrate on opening the nut from the bottom with it hinged on top.

  11. jpheisz says:

    No need to send a drawing – I know exactly what you are talking about.
    I originally wanted the nut to open from the bottom and hinged on the top. This would make the rod clear the nut better and make the unit more compact, but I latched onto the present way I did it and gave up on it. You have encouraged me to think about it some more and now I can see an easy way to do it.
    One of the things I worried about was how tightly the nuts would gave to grip the rod, but it turns out…CONT

  12. deezynar says:

    I wasn’t thinking about hinging the nut at the top, but using arms like you have. I’d just reverse the arms, hinging them just behind the fixed vise jaw.  I’d have both pivots far enough from the screw centerline that the arms would angle in towards the nut halves out at the ends. The angle would cause the nut halves to press together when the screw engages, like the gates of a canal lock. I honestly don’t know if this would work, I’m just guessing. I can e-mail you a drawing.

  13. jpheisz says:

    You have explained it well and when I make a steel version of this vise latter in the summer (best guess, time permitting), I’ll revisit it. It seems to be a very good way to make the nut open from the bottom (hinged on top), which would make the whole unit more compact.
    Thanks, I’m going to put on my thinking cap and work with this on a possible new version of this vise – again, time permitting.

  14. deezynar says:

    Cont. Cont.
    The set-up I describe doesn’t have any more parts, nor is it any more complicated. In fact, it may be simpler. The change puts the quick release lever on the moving jaw so it’s always up front & easy to reach. The bar system I describe is typical on Record brand vises. I just adapted the idea to be used w/ your elegant split nut design.

  15. deezynar says:

    Cont.
    The bar runs below the arms, so each arm needs a projection below for the bar to push against. The location of the projections (just blocks of maple) will effect the amount of force & range of rotation of the lever. Mount the blocks closer to the arm pivots, & the rotation needed is less but the force needed is more. W/ the blocks further out, the dynamic changes. The arms need a light spring to bring them together, but it’s not needed when the screw is engaged.

  16. deezynar says:

    Mount the quick release lever between the moving jaw & the tommy bar. It turns on an axis parallel to the screw’s & below it rotating on a 1″ dia. dowel going thru the jaw. The dowel is slotted for a 1″ x 1/4″ steel bar that runs below the screw & arms. Support the far end of the bar on a drag bar that’d also support the screw end. When the nut’s closed, the bar’s 1″ dim. is vert. (1/4″ horiz.) but when it’s turned, the 1″ dim. goes towards horiz. & spreads the arms.

  17. jpheisz says:

    That’s a really good idea to turn the jaws around, so they clamp onto the rod. To do this with my open / close lever would have the lever pretty far in, so some sort of extension would need to be rigged. Of course, what I have done works well enough and is not inconvenient to use. I’d rather sacrifice some convenience for complexity and parts count.
    Another way was to make the nut open from the bottom. This may have been better, but would involve more complex cuts.

  18. deezynar says:

    I’ve given this some more thought. I’d have the arms pivot just behind the fixed jaw & have the pivots spaced far apart so torque on the threaded rod would actually pull the nut halves together. I’d go w/ the Record style quick release lever I mentioned before w/ a flat steel bar rotating to cam the arms apart. Only a light spring would be needed to bring the arms back together.

  19. jpheisz says:

    Thanks! And thanks for watching the series, I hope you liked it.

  20. jpheisz says:

    The plywood is Baltic birch and it comes in a 5′ x 5′ sheet. I believe I paid around $50 for it, but I’m not 100% sure.
    I bought it from a specialty building supply – they stock many things that you can’t get at Home Depot, etc.

  21. offenwrong says:

    aw now I get it…that is sweet

  22. BiglinesNL says:

    ah yes, and I suppose the cut edges of the quick release nut actually help cut the thread back into shape if something deforms

  23. jpheisz says:

    There will be some wear, mainly on the rod, but I don’t think it’ll be enough to cause problems. This could be reduced by linking the lead screw to the guide rods (to hold the screw up) at the end, and I may do this.

  24. BiglinesNL says:

    “it makes a cool sound”, aren’t you worried the thread will get damaged over time?

  25. jpheisz says:

    I thought about using springs to open the quick release jaws, but I also wanted to avoid springs – they are hard to find and I’m doing plans for this vise, so I wanted common, easy to find parts. Using wood as the primary construction material makes the scale of things much bigger, as it needs to be bigger to have the same strength.
    If I were to make a vise from steel (I will be…), I would do it differently, more like you are suggesting.

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