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This is the eleventhvideo in a detailed series featuring important aspects of finishing, sanding, gluing and clamping a traditional solid wood door. AskWoodman.com Video 11 includes an important sanding tip for all woodworkers. Woodman’s pet peeve? He hates to see machine marks in a finished piece. What’s the best way to avoid that? Sand the sequence. Sanding The Sequence, working through the grits, is a huge time saver. Woodman talks about his sanding theory, different grits, and what sandpapers he considers the best on the market today. He also explains why he doesn’t use random orbital sanders for most sanding work. Woodman believes a half sheet orbital sander does a superior job to achieve flatness and straightness. Sanding with the Festool half sheet sander is a pleasure and is like sanding on autopilot. ______________________________________ Be sure to check out the other videos in the Solid Wood Door Series. The complete series starts with explaining how to build a stunning tung oil based finish using Waterlox Original. It also shows detailed instruction for how to prep the surface, how to glue and clamp mortise and tenon joints using PC7 and various clamps, how to make blow out repairs, and multiple sanding techniques and philosophy. As a bonus, you’ll see my very unique door holding system that spins effortlessly on a rotisserie style mechanism to ensure perfect finish application. ______________________________________ Want to know which tools and products that

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25 Responses to “Best Sanding Tip For Woodworkers: Sand The Sequence – SOLID WOOD DOOR SERIES – Video 11”

  1. 987RB says:

    An excellent and very useful video. Many thanks.

  2. askwoodman says:

    You are too kind Harvey. Thanks for that comment. Allan

  3. askwoodman says:

    I think about YouTube’s influence all the time. I have learned so many things online. I learned how to edit videos and do a break job on my Tundra. Thanks for taking your time to reach out and for visiting my channel. Allan

  4. djen1218 says:

    You’re video on sanding is great. Just like u say there’s nothing worse than the finish not being right. I wounder what are grandparents would have done with you tube and Google. There’s no reason why you can’t learn how to do pretty much anything that you would like to learn thanks to experience people. That are nice enough to do a learning guide. Well I definitely will be using you’re sequence on sanding. You don’t know unless someone teaches you the correct way.

  5. HarveyWysong says:

    Once again, I am in your debt for your good advice. Thank you very much.

  6. guitarguy316 says:

    I am very much a novice to woodworking but I was always confindent that proper sanding was important. After watch your video that has just made it that much more important, especially, as you say the “sequence”…thanks for the tip, I will take it with me on all my projects.

  7. fazmn says:

    thank you very much. 

  8. askwoodman says:

    A belt sander is very aggressive and hard to control for making surfaces flat and straight. Some belt sanders have a frame that holds the sander with even pressure and distance from the work, but they are very hard to find. The 1/2 sheet sander may not be the fastest, but I think it does the best job with the least chance for damage or error. They also do require much effort so hours of sanding are not tiring. You want yellow glue. Aliphatic resin emulsion is the technical term.

  9. fazmn says:

    hi….this is a very good video, and i like to know if the belt sander can perform better….or not, because most of the woodworking video on (you tube and metacafe),they use sander like the one that you have and not the belt sander.

    and one more thing,i went to the hardware shop to purchase a wood glue and the sales person ask me if i want the yellow or the white…..what is the different between the two. i hope you will be happy to answer my question. thank you.

  10. justineinparis says:

    Thank you for such a professional, informative clip. I’m a novice woodworker and I’ve just begun refinishing an old dresser. Your videos are the only ones on YouTube that properly address woodworking issues. Thanks a mil!

  11. askwoodman says:

    I buy the VSM Vitex paper at the Weatherford Co here in Austin. Their # is 512-444-6765. They have a website also. The owner is Jim and the counter industrial salesman is Pete. Great guys. Tell them I sent you. I get the Mirka at Beavertools . com. They are also a pleasure to do business with.

  12. zardiw says:

    Where can you buy the VSM Vitex Sandpaper?

  13. askwoodman says:

    Thanks for the info. I will order a some sheets and give it a whirl. I have always found 3M a little frustrating. They have so many products and they vary wildly in quality. Thanks for pointing me to a specific item.

  14. yoheff988 says:

    great video, thank you

  15. GBMorris says:

    Ok, thank you!

    Your videos are absolutely great. I’ve learned a lot. Keep it up!

  16. askwoodman says:

    Vsm/Vitex starts with 80 in their paper backed stock. It is very aggressive. But in my large belt sander, for stock quick stock removal and dimension setting, I mostly use 36. 3M makes a black floor paper called Resonite that comes in rolls and can be purchased down to 24. I was just trying to speak in general woodworking terms when I start the sequence at 80. For the vast bulk of my work it is sufficient for rapid surface setting, but there are always more extreme situations. Thanks.

  17. GBMorris says:

    Why not start with 60 grit?

  18. askwoodman says:

    #3 @strolgen Regarding staining: If I wanted to stain a fine grained wood like maple, I would stain when I get to 150 in the sequence, then continue on and restain at 320. I just can’t tolerate swirl and scratch marks in my pieces. Thanks again for commenting!

  19. askwoodman says:

    #2 @strolgen I have made hundreds and hundreds of paint grade frame and panel poplar cabinet doors and I always start with 80 to set the faces of the frames and the panels in order to save time and get on with removing the glue and setting a final flatness. If you look at panel sanding in commercial cabinet shops you’ll find their first pass is always 60 or 80 to set the shape. Trying to set the shape with 150 on hard maple and white oak (certainly not exotics) can be a daunting task.

  20. askwoodman says:

    #1 @strolgen Granted I do not spend time sanding white wood from Home Depot, but you’re right, if I was making a straight component out of poplar with no surface irregularities or glue joints 150 is fine. Most of my shop cabinets are baltic birch plywood w/poplar drawers. There is no way I am going to sit on a half blind dovetail joint for several minutes w/150 in order to float that joint when in a matter of seconds the desired result is achieved using 80. Then from there I sand the sequence.

  21. strolgen says:

    Even if I’m a beginner, I don’t think starting at 80 is applicable if you are starting with 4S lumber from big store. I’m still not surfacing my lumber myself and start at 150 usually without issue. Also Finishing at 320 is sometime not preferrable if you plan on using stain which will not “sink” in the wood. 320 increase the risk of burnishing certain wood. Between I work only with poplar and premium pine … So I cannot say what is preferrable all of these exotic wood I’ve been dreamng of :)

  22. askwoodman says:

    You are correct. It is the combination of a really good half sheet sander (Festool) and the best sandpaper I have ever found (VSM/Vitex) that has led me to this conclusion. With this setup I have twice the amount of abrasive in contact with the work piece versus as a 5″ random orbit. Flatness and straightness of both surfaces and edges is also critical to me which is a another reason I use this setup. I also really like the low dust of a half sheet sander versus the slinging effect of a ro. Thx

  23. gizmobently says:

    I too wondered about using random orbit sander exclusively. I do believe your explanation makes sense, and I am sure years of experience is what led you to your opinion on this. It helps to have a half sheet sander of extraordinary quality though. I do not believe you can get those results with just any flat sander as your time will suffer tremenously, unless time is of no concern.

  24. askwoodman says:

    Yes that does sound exciting.Even after 25 years of professional woodworking, I am still amazed by the properties of different woods and by the infinite variety of ways we are able to use use tools to create using wood. I would be very interested to hear about the shop you will be working in and what your first woodworking tasks will be. Keep in touch. Allan

  25. lokinya says:

    I just made a study switch from IT too woodworking, so I’m still a complete beginner. I’ll be starting soon with my study for the first time as a woodworker at a company that makes custom furniture, window frames and doors.
    I love making boxes and my first project I finished a while ago was a cigar humidor… it did not turn out as nice as I wanted to, but I learned a lot from the process. (quadrant hinges are a pain!)
    Exciting times ahead. :)

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